Which Sportster Front Pulley Works Best for Me?

City Performance

More Low-end power, quicker launch and easier 2-up riding!

VS

Interstate Performance

More MPH, lower Interstate RPM's and a cooler running engine. Choose desired cruise MPH.

Pulley Kits

Pulley Only

Pulley Only

Pulley Only

Pulley Only

Pulley Kits

Sportster Front Pulleys

Why Change Your Drive Pulleys?

 Change the pulley because you do not like the existing road performance of your bike.  Harley chooses pulley combinations for the average way they feel the bike will be ridden. Harley considers the 883 as a "Street Bike" (60 mph Interstate), the 1200's for the interstate (70 mph). 

 Fine tune your gearing for how you ride; "City" or "Interstate" .

  • For better City Performance decrease the front pulley size, and/or increase the size of the rear pulley. This is quick between stop lights. This increases throttle position and engine RPM at interstate speeds. 

  • For better Interstate Performance increase the front pulley size, and/or decrease the rear pulley size. This decreases throttle position and engine RPM at interstate speed. Add up to 15 mph at your existing engine RPM!

  Above are Pulleys & Kits for Interstate and City Performance.

Pulley & Kit Choices

  • Pulley Kits for all years are available:

  • Pulley only

  • Pulley & Tools

  • Pulley & Speedometer Corrector

  • Pulley, Tools & Speedometer Corrector

  • With or without a rear 66 tooth pulley, 2004-Up

What Pulley Do I Have?

  • 1200's: These are "geared" to run about 3140 engine rpm at 70 mph (1991-2003, 29 tooth) and increased in 2004 to about 3250 rpm.

  • 883's: Are geared lower than the 1200's, especially since 2004. The 883's at 70 mph run about 3380, 1991-2003 (27 tooth) up to 3780, 2004-2009 (28 tooth) and lowered in 2010 to about 3650 (29 tooth).

  • Stock cams: Sportsters cruise well at 2900-3200 rpm (1200) and 3050-3250 (883) for interstate cruising, flat land, solo rider.

  • Performance cams: These are for performance at higher rpm. The 2900 rpm reference may be too low; the cam mfg. will have recommendation.

We strongly recommend a tachometer; it's the only way to really judge your driving style.​

28 tooth

32 tooth

29 tooth

31_Installed_small.jpg

Pulley Sizing Suggestions

Sportsters are long stroke engines, plenty of torque. Both 883's and 1200's can handle taller than factory gearing. Both engines have the same stroke, the 1200 piston is 1/2" larger diameter. So, the pulley of choice goes to the riding style of the owner rather than the engine size. Pulley choice depends on what Performance you want to increase; Road or Street. 

  • The year is important as the engine to transmission sprockets, and front and rear pulleys are not the same in all years and models. 

  • The "sweet spot" for fuel economy is about 3200 RPM so pick the pulley based on your desired cruise mph at 3200 RPM. 

  • At 70 MPH, each tooth is worth approximately 3 MPH. Instead of 70 you'll be at 73 MPH (+i tooth), 76 MPH (+2 teeth), 79 (+3 teeth), 81 (+4 teeth) for the same engine RPM as the original pulley at 70 MPH. The rear 66 tooth pulley gives you another about 4 MPH. About 16 mph increase.

2004-UP 883's

The 883's are comfortable cruising 55-60 mph. When you hit 65-70 MPH the MPG is drastically reduced and the engine RPM is a bit "Buzzy". 

  • The Primary ratio is lower for 883 than 1200. The Engine Sprocket is 34 teeth, the 1200 is 38 teeth.

  • The 28 tooth, 2004-'09, runs 3503 at 65 MPH, 3772 RPM at 70 MPH  Original pulley.

  • The 29 tooth, 2010-Up, runs 3382 at 65 MPH, 3642 RPM at 70 MPH  Original pulley.

  • The 30 tooth, 2004-Up, runs 3269 at 65 MPH, 3521 RPM at 70 MPH

  • The 31 tooth, 2004-Up, runs 3164 at 65 MPH, 3407 RPM at 70 MPH

  • The 32 tooth, 2004-Up, runs 3065 at 65 MPH, 3301 RPM at 70 MPH

  • The rear 66 tooth kit, Solo rider, to replace the original 68 tooth. The 66 tooth reduces about 150 RPM at 70 MPH. The 66 requires a 1" belt. Belts 2004-2006 are 1-1/8".

None of these pulley combinations require a belt change. Any size pulley is nice around town, traffic is easy, two-up riding is still fine even with the 32 tooth. The 32/66 Interstate Flyer Kit is for 883, solo riders. The 32 requires some modification to the Pulley Cover and exhaust mounting. The 66 just bolts on.

 

2004-Up 1200's

The 1200 is a good cruiser at 70 mph with a 29 tooth, original pulley.

  • The 28 tooth, runs 3360 at 70 MPH, 3604 RPM at 75 MPH. This pulley gives you an "quicker" take-off performance over the stock 29 tooth.

  • The 29 tooth, runs 3252 at 70 MPH, 3484 RPM at 75 MPH. Original pulley.

  • The 30 tooth, runs 3140 at 70 MPH, 3364 RPM at 75 MPH

  • The 31 tooth, runs 3035 at 70 MPH, 3252 RPM at 75 MPH

  • The 32 tooth, runs 2916 at 70 MPH, 3124 RPM at 75 MPH

  • The rear 66 tooth kit to replace the original 68 tooth. The 66 tooth reduces about 150 RPM at 75 mph.

None of these pulley combinations require a belt change. The 32 requires some modification to the Pulley Cover and exhaust mounting, the 31 and the rear 66 just bolts on.

SOC178-SP2m.JPG

Modifications for 32 Tooth, 2004-Up 

Sportster 32 Pulley
Sportster 32 Pulley
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32TAS1 Installed2_small.jpg

1991-2003, 883's

  • The Primary ratio is the same for 883 & 1200, 1991-2003.

  • The 27 tooth is great for wheelies and racing 1200's! The 27 tooth is not easy or economical on the interstate. It is fine around town, traffic and two-up riding because launch is easy. At 70 mph, 3373 RPM. Stock for 883's.

  • The 29 tooth is comfortable around town, traffic and two-up riding is fine. At 70 MPH, 3141 RPM. This works great for 883's. Stock for 1200's.

  • The 30 tooth is fine around town, traffic requires more frequent clutching. At 70 MPH, 3036 RPM. Not recommended for 2-Up.

  • The 32 pulley is not recommended for 1991-2003, 883's.

These pulleys do not require a belt change.

1991-2003, 1200's

  • The 27 tooth is great for wheelies and 1/4 mile racing! The 27 tooth is not easy or economical on the interstate. It is fine around town, traffic and two-up riding because launch is easy. At 70 mph, 3373 RPM.

  • The 29 tooth is comfortable around town, traffic and two-up riding is fine. At 70 MPH, 3141 RPM. 

  • The 30 tooth is fine around town, traffic requires more frequent clutching. At 70 MPH, 3036 RPM. Fine for 2-Up.

  • The 32 pulley is is the same final ratio as changing the rear 61 pulley to the European 55 rear pulley. Not recommended unless you are usually solo, ride primarily flat ground. At 75 MPH, 3050 RPM.

These pulleys do not require a belt change.

XR1200's

The XR's final drive ratio is the same as 2004-2010 883's, but the rear tire was changed to the low profile "50" series so the engine runs higher rpm than the 883, about 3920 rpm at 70 mph.

  • The XR can take a 30 tooth and use the same belt. Our 30 tooth pulleys do not require any modification. The stock Harley pulley requires some modification to the Pulley Cover ribs.

  • The 31 and 32 tooth pulleys require a longer belt or a 66 rear pulley to use the original belt. The smaller Rear 66 tooth instead of the original 68 tooth compensates for the larger diameter 31 and 32 tooth pulley so you can use your original belt. 

The Pulley Cover of the XR is different than the XL's and requires some modification for the 31 & 32 pulley. Our XR Kits include a Rotary File to be used with your drill motor or die grinder to complete these modifications.

XR1200 Pulleys
AllProducts1213c_edited.jpg
Sportster Front Pulley

Comment on Front Pulley & Kit Choices

1991-2003, we offer 27, 29, 30 & 32 tooth front overdrive pulleys to replace the 27 tooth (883) or 29 tooth (1200).

  • 883's: We recommend a 29 or 30, the 32 is a bit much for the 883. The 30 for Interstate, 29 for 50/50 City/Interstate.

  • 1200's: Easily handle the 32, but is only useful if the bike is typically 75+ mph, ideal on the interstate. It gives you the same final ratio as the European bikes that had a 55 tooth rear pulley. The 29 & 30 are good for 50/50 riding, City & Interstate. The 27 tooth gives the 1200 more "bottom end" launch. Quicker off the line, best street performance.

2004-Up we offer 28, 29, 30, 31 & 32 tooth front and a 66 tooth rear.

  • 1200: Sportster final drive is almost the same as the 1991-2003, see above. 

  • 883's: Changed to an extremely "low" final ratio. Harley did this by changing the engine sprocket in the primary, engine to transmission drive. The 883 is 34 tooth, the 1200 is 38 tooth. The 28/29 for City, the 31/32 & 66 for Interstate.

  • XR1200: Same 883 primary and front pulley, 28 tooth, but also the rear tire changed to a "50" Series low-profile. The final drive is "lower" than the 883's. See 883 above.

 

Interstate Flyer, Front & Rear Pulley Kits

We offer complete front & rear pulley kits; 30/66, 31/66 & 32/66. For 883, the 31/66 is almost the same final ratio as a stock 1200, and doesn't require any modifications or belt change. The 32/66 is a small "overdrive" for the 883 compared with the "stock" 1200 ratio; like running a 30 tooth on the 1200 bikes. The rear just bolts on, the 32 requires some modification to the sides of the pulley cover mounting posts and the exhaust bracket, see pictures above. A rotary file is included with the 32's so all you need is a drill motor.

Putting An Early ('95-'03) Front Pulley On A Late ('04-up) Sportster

Do not do it!

Mechanically it fits (early to late), the transmission splines are the same (33) and the belt teeth are the same pitch, 14mm. However, if you put the two pulleys side by side you'll notice the late model is wider, has the belt guide on the inboard side and the mounting flange that butts to the transmission shaft spacer (or bearing on '06-up) is flush with the belt guide. The early pulley mounting flange is inset from the actual edge of the pulley. The tooth area of the rear pulley were also moved outboard. All these modifications were required to allow the tire change made in '04 to 150/80 from 130..

In '04 we got the wider tire, HD moved the belt outboard to achieve belt clearance for the tire. Because the early pulley has the belt guide outboard the belt doesn't come off when mounted to an '04+, but it does not run straight either. The belt "wants" to run straight so it constantly "pushes" against the belt guide. This is verified by belt wear into the guide ring. If the belt guide separates from the pulley the belt moves outboard to straighten itself and about 1/8" is off the pulley. If the guide is lost, and the belt is partially unsupported the belt will shred; oh, unhappy day.